Andersonville went Dutch. Wicker Park got wankers. Now West Town has been invaded.

This time it’s Belgians: Leopold opens today. Washed-out exposed brick surrounds the newly gutted space (formerly Relax Lounge), setting the scene for a comforting meal.

Chef Jeff Hedin’s (Green Zebra, The Bristol, Witts) hearty menu is designed for sharing. Start with briny oysters on the half shell or split a steaming bowl of mussels accompanied by crispy frites. Don’t miss the poutine smothered in lamb sausage gravy and creamy Saint André.

Dorade gets a wintry treatment (celery root walnut gnocchi and caraway broth), while braised short ribs are a Belgian extravaganza served with stoemp (mashed potatoes, root veggies) and Maredsous Triple reduction.

Then there’s the beer: eight on tap, 30 bottles, and a superb wine and cocktail list to match (liquor license pending). Très bel, non?

Leopold, 1450 West Chicago Avenue, at Bishop Street (312-348-1028 or leopoldchicago.com).

Photo: Maureen Lunn / Flickr