What’s black and white and speaks like deese?
Paris Club, a buzzed-about bistro opening tonight in River North.
Owners R.J. and Jerrod Melman (Lettuce Entertain You) along with chef Jean Joho (Everest) have business in their blood. The joint hums with energy, voices ricocheting through the spacious bar and sprawling dining room.
Affable servers suggest sharing plates from the casual/classic menu: escargot bourguignonne, cured sardines, charcuterie and raw offerings, rich rillettes and terrines, salads and vegetables, seafood (paper bag snapper atop a lemony fennel bed is a must), and, of course, beef (steak frites, filet mignon, le hamburger).
Over-order and take whatever you don’t finish to go (macaroni gratin tastes just as good the next day). Prices are pleasantly affordable.
House wines — on tap — are blended especially for the restaurant. A nice accent.
Paris Club, 59 West Hubbard Street, between Dearborn and Clark Streets (312-595-0800 or parisclubchicago.com).
Photo: Anjali Pinto Photography / Courtesy of Paris Club