You love trying new restaurants as much as the next guy. But old standbys are often overlooked.

At Antico, a new Italian spot in Bucktown, you get the best of both worlds.

You’ll recognize owner Brad Schlieder and Audias Gutierrez, former GM and chef of West Town dining destination A Tavola, and the duo’s hearty, market-driven Italian food. But Gutierrez enters new territory with Grandma-style fare from Northern and Central Italy and surrounding countries.

By day, find house-roasted coffee and fresh-fried zeppole. After dark: pan-roasted clams with pancetta and saffron, grilled lamb loin chops, and risotto Milanese. A solid selection of pastas made daily includes pillow-soft gnocchi, spaghetti with wild mushrooms, and tagliatelle Bolognese.

Antico or nuovo, it’s all buono to us.

Antico, 1946 North Leavitt Street, at Armitage Avenue (773-489-4895 or anticochicago.com).

Photo: Foodcollection / Getty Images