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Food & Drink

Gemma Restaurant Opens on Henderson

A new neighborhood treasure

gemma!

Allison Yoder and Stephen Rogers have twin toddler boys — take a deep, cleansing breath — but you’ll find nary a finger food at their new restaurant, Gemma.

The American nouveau menu is a mix of modern and ethnic cuisine, likely inspired by their years in restaurants in Napa Valley, New York, South Beach, and abroad — there’s no region Yoder and Rogers haven’t eaten their way through in more than twenty years together.

They take a straightforward approach with Gemma, making every design and provisions decision based on what they want in a restaurant experience. The result is unpretentious, elegant food (such as mussels dotted with Thai basil and swimming in coconut-lemongrass broth) served in a space whose natural palette conjures salty sea air.

gemma!

The menu changes seasonally; right now, find crispy veal sweetbreads, kale and celery root salad with sunchoke croutons, brick chicken with roasted marble potatoes, and braised veal cheeks. Yoder, who grew up on a dairy farm in central Pennsylvania, has a soft spot for the grass-fed beef tartare starter, which she pairs with a glass of champagne.

Take a whiff of fresh-baked bread (savory scones with dried figs and Gouda next to rosemary and thyme breadsticks), and be sure to leave room for house-made ice cream and sorbet.

Inhale. Exhale.

Gemma, 2323 North Henderson Avenue (214-370-9426 or gemmadallas.com). The first in a series of Monday wine dinners is January 20; get five courses paired with La Spinetta wines from Italy for $95 per person. R.S.V.P. required.

Photos: Kevin Marple / Courtesy of Gemma

LOCATION
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2323 N Henderson Ave
Dallas, TX 75206
214-370-9426
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