Thu, February 7, 2008 3:43PM EST

Back on the Scene, Trasteverine

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If there's one universal truth about Fashion Week, it's that perpetual It girl Chloë Sevigny has the Midas touch.

Her latest appearance was at last night's amazing Trasteverine presentation at the Green-Naftali Gallery. Technically, she wasn't there in person (at least not that we saw), but she did star alongside musician Devendra Banhart in a silent film projected on huge white walls during the de'file'.

Not that she was the focal point of the night. (Fashion Week 08 can't be ALL about her.) Trasteverine's nine looks — all dresses, all black, and all named for naval battles — stole the show with, as co-designer Michalyn Andrews put it, "minimalism and austerity with the memory of decadence." (That's a mouthful.) Our favorite piece had to be Raval, a layering piece that's half shrug and half huge flowing collar — no, no, keep reading — that comes down to the bust and spans front and back.

This collection marks their fourth season. They took a break to travel for all of 2007. Welcome back, Trasteverine. We'll take one of everything.

Wed, February 6, 2008 6:02PM EST

Ghost Riding the Benz

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In two dazzling rooms at the Lotos Club, laid-back designer Chris Benz flaunted a slouchy, relaxed fall collection resembling the merrier moments of a Fitzgerald tale. Highlights of his disarming tableau included a sparkling tweed tuxedo and perfectly piped pajama tops, raccoon collars, and an updated take on the fez. The most thrilling debut, however, was a collaborative effort: Manolo Blahnik for Chris Benz, in which Benz used materials like repurposed chiffon to create spectator shoes that are, well, a bit of a spectacle.

Chris Benz

Wed, February 6, 2008 1:24PM EST

Patrik Rzepski: Say That Five Times Fast

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CHELSEA — In a stripped-down loft in the middle of Chelsea's art district, 25-year-old East Village-based designer Patrik Rzepski unveiled his latest rock-infused collection (this season inspired by English band Rocky Music) to his downtown fan base. Keeping true to his mostly black repertoire, Rzepski offered slouchy cashmere dresses, zip-front overalls, and tiered chiffon party frocks all in the company colors but mixed things up with grungy plaid jackets and jumpers — as well as some rear-view S&Mish lace-up pants, which the neighborhood welcomed with open arms.

Tue, February 5, 2008 6:48PM EST

Tibi Goes Back in Time

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Despite our early morning grumblings about yet more crappy weather, the hazy drizzle seemed a perfect fit for Tibi's London-inspired affair. Inside the cozy salon, our favorite Georgia peach, Amy Smilovic, channeled Old England via plaid capes, cropped pants, and one darling tweed suit.

For those who couldn't shake the cold, textured tights, patterned leggings, knee socks, and leg warmers from the new Hue by Tibi Collection provided more than enough coverage on all those lanky appendages.

The runway then transitioned into a '70s affair, with Charlie's finest angels strutting their stuff in chiffon tie-neck blouses, tree-stamped prints, and wide-leg trousers that would make Farrah melt.

Tue, February 5, 2008 6:47PM EST

Ben Cho Outdoes Himself

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A cooler than thou crew of supporters (Chloë Sevigny, Yeah Yeah Yeahs, Misshapes, countless black-clad devotees sporting asymmetrical haircuts) gathered at the Altman Building to witness Ben Cho's latest fashion spectacle.

Puzzle-piece sheaths and splashy frocks with three-dimensional blooms and lip-print shifts (in collaboration with artist Dan Colen) stood out as high points. But it was the impressive yarn stag headpiece during the finale that left the crowd feeling — fittingly — like deer in headlights. Proving deliberate idiosyncrasy is still the name of the game.

Mon, February 4, 2008 6:03PM EST

Sari Gueron, Rachel Comey, and Sue Stemp Make Ruffles

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Rolling into the Sari Gueron show felt far more casual than one would expect from a designer well-loved by celebrities, editors, and the grown-up Gossip Girl set. At the Prince George Ballroom the line was calm and collected (and included celebrity spirit Julianne Moore).

Gueron's looks, by the by, were somewhat overtaken with lace — but we were swayed by vivid colors and layered skirts beautifully styled against a good helping of buttery black leather. All that fabric suggested fall without shouting it. Classy and demure, staring Sari Gueron, coming to a fine boutique near you.

Sari Gueron

On a dark and somewhat stormy night, the eerily amazing Rachel Comey put on an eerie and amazing show at the Salmagundi Art Club, kind of an old-world drawing room — cue the aging club-members sipping white wine in the downstairs bar and live pianist playing spooky strains from the ancient baby grand.

Thin belts and Hepburnesque trousers, ankle socks and distorted Mary Janes, brightly colored scarf-turbans and kimonos in flowing silk suggest ladies of another era: well-educated, well-bred, and very well-dressed but distinctly devious and mildly dead. Pale faces, nude lips, and dark eyes finished off the ghostly look those models do so well.

Sure we got a little bit scared (almost no one can call fur-covered oven mitts fashion) but we survived to tell the tale — and to wear it proudly.

Rachel Comey

Despite the torrential downpour, we couldn't pass up the chance to cozy up to Brit designer Sue Stemp, who set up her girls at the private social club Norwood.

The scene was set with a glamorously refurbished townhouse, brocade chaise lounges, leaded crystal glasses, and plenty of champagne.

It was just like walking into a Parisian salon, what with all of Stemp's femme fatale silhouettes topped with darling, cigarette-girl like headpieces (and more berets!). In true Stemp style, the ruffled, sequined, pleat-heavy models mingled with an equally dapper (if damp) crowd for the good part of the evening. Why wait in lines for a minute of runway peeping when you can make it into a party?

Sue Stemp

Mon, February 4, 2008 2:32PM EST

Built by Wendy Slide Show Presentation with Joanna Newsom

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It would have been pleasing enough to eat bonbons and Babycakes while watching slides from Wendy's Winter Light look book shuffled in among Switzerland-inspired shots. But to get a private performance from the hippest harpist you've ever heard? That was pretty sweet.

Mon, February 4, 2008 9:47AM EST

Who Feels Pretty? Lela Rose at the Tent

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BRYANT PARK — It was the first show of the morning, but the pulsating beat of "Girls and Boys in Love," (by The Rumble Strips) had the Salon surging with energy. Lela Rose punched up the runway with her signature assortment of super rich fabrics, a vibrant palette, and spectacular feather and sequin embellishments. Standouts of the season include an elegant taffeta parka, a black burnout organza dress with a ruffle, and a metallic lapis tweed frock — all of which illustrates her ability to dole out feminine extravagances with a glam rock edge.

Lela Rose

Sun, February 3, 2008 1:58PM EST

Obedience School: The Runway Collection of Obedient Sons and Daughters

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MIDTOWN — We took our seats in the Beaux Art Hudson Theater last night to witness the fashion manhood of Obedient Sons and new diversion line Daughters.

Autumn/Winter '08 delivers a fresh take on the urban outdoorsman with wool riding jackets, brocade hunting caps, mohair gloves, and pleated trousers.

And matching boys clothes for girls! Tap shorts, leggings, blazers, and cummerbunds in checks, plaids, paisleys, and brocades. Oxfords and cardigans, jumpers and scarves pile on top of each other in cozy harmony. With each runway look Obedient Sons and Daughters are moving father away from their original rocker aesthetic and much, much closer to nature.

Obedient Sons