As kids, we pleaded to eat dessert before dinner. Now that we’re mature (cough), we want the cheese course first.
Sarah Dvorak has granted our wish: At her appropriately named Mission Cheese, opening today, American artisanal cheese is the main event.
Dvorak keeps her themed (California, Wisconsin) and make-your-own cheese plates simple with minimal accoutrements so as to really taste any of the 60 to 80 varieties on hand. Expect unusual choices, like Kunik (a New York cow’s and goat’s milk triple creme) and Dunbarton Blue (a cheddar style with Roquefort culture from Wisconsin). There’s also raclette over potatoes, three-cheese mac ’n’ cheese, and a few pressed sandwiches.
Beer and wine are in the works, but for now, enjoy the dairy goodness in a charmingly homespun space (green subway-tile bar, cement walls, salvaged barn wood, two giant chalkboards). With only 21 seats, it’s downright cozy.
And that’s just the whey we like it.
Mission Cheese, 736 Valencia Street, between 18th and 19th Streets (415-553-8667 or missioncheese.net).
Photo: Skånska Matupplevelser / Flickr