Esquire. Ph.D. VIP.

We love a haughty title.

Our latest: DailyCandy Chicago, RFOC (Ripasso’s First Official Customer).

When word came of the opening, we booked it, expecting to elbow through throngs of Terragusto fans in order to score a table. Instead, we found the opposite. An empty restaurant — which meant one thing and one thing only: more food for us.

At Ripasso, chef Theo Gilbert does what he did best at Terragusto: He creates the kind of pasta dreams are made of. Start with fresh-baked bread, thinly shaved vegetables, crostini, and a cocktail. Move on to delicate yet hearty ribbons of ink-black neri mingling with shrimp and cauliflower, squash-stuffed cappellacci with brown butter and amaretti, pillowy gnocchi, and baked polenta.

Everything is pitch-perfect.

So we have an addendum: BCNTL (But Certainly Not the Last).

Ripasso, 1619 North Damen Avenue, between North and Wabansia Avenues (773-342-8799).

Photo: Courtesy of Ripasso