Union Square this time of year is a perilous place (shoppers’ stampedes, ice-skaters under the influence).
Refuel just uphill at Bouche, now open above the Stockton Street Tunnel.
Duck in during rush hour through late night at the former Bar Crudo space, still cozy, but (ironically) renewed with antiqued walls, industrial fixtures, and repurposed wine rack tables.
Sustain for the sake of your gift list with Frenchified California small plates (pork loin and black olive marmalade, sauteed calamaretti with seasonal wild mushrooms) from chef Nicolas Borzee (Coi). Go back when you have returns — the menu changes weekly.
In need of a post-Ice Capades escapade? Greet the majestic hog-cum-compass upon entry before settling in upstairs for dessert: cheese and pears or creme fraiche custard and a glass of muscat from the boutique wine list.
Brian Boitano would do it.
Bouche, 603 Bush Street, at Stockton Street (415-956-0396 or bouchesf.com).
Photo: Courtesy of Bouche