Truly enjoying the Charlie Palmer experience used to mean dropping a couple hundo on a Healdsburg hotel room (to facilitate getting sauced during a Dry Creek Kitchen feast).

Leave the car keys at home: Palmer has officially come to town, taking over both Union Square’s newly christened Mystic Hotel and Burritt Tavern, Burritt Room’s sister eatery.

The Tavern takes cues from its moody sibling with a speakeasy vibe, most notably showcased by six curtained, we’re-up-to-no-good booths. The mini dens of iniquity provide the appropriate backdrop for chef and five-year Palmer alum Ashley Weaver’s shareable Dungeness crab and asparagus tarts, oysters with grapefruit vodka mignonette, and masculine mains (pan-seared Scottish salmon, grilled Duroc pork chop, and lamb shoulder 36 hours in the making).

Duck in for a lunchtime tryst (coming soon) with daily sandwich specials, warm asparagus salad, or Cowgirl Creamery trio.

You know, a menage a trois.

Burritt Tavern, 417 Stockton Street, between Bush and Sutter Streets (415-400-0561 or charliepalmer.com).

Photo: Aubrie Pick for DailyCandy