The self-made man.

Jean-Luc. N? Ed Kleefield. Party planner. Moviemaker. Man about town.

Launches the self-made restaurant. With the executive chef from Raoul’s and Le Perigord. The designer from Le Colonial, Orsay, and Tavern on the Green.

On the Upper West Side.
Bold.

Jean-Luc, a classic French bistro with an avant-garde twist (note the statue of “Venus Rising” with a tattoo and piercing). The food is no afterthought (clearly all those years of clubbing made the man appreciate a good meal). Saut?ed sea scallops rolled in blue corn meal with eggplant caviar and tomato confit; grilled red snapper with porcini mushrooms, fingerling potatoes, and spinach ragout; not to mention a killer steak au poivre.

All in an over-the-top atmosphere with ostrich-leather banquettes, Biedermeier chairs, ancient mosaics, and a 25-foot mahogany bar.

The feel is supposed to be “Paris in its heyday.”

If it’s all that it’s hyped up to be, we prefer to think of it as New York in its heyday.