Why go all the way downtown when you can go downstairs?

Kemia (located under Marseille) is the perfect cocktail of bar and lounge — a bit of Casablanca in Hell’s Kitchen. Low seating accommodates artful slouching as well as practiced posing. Colored lights encourage come-hither glances and shameless flirting. Perhaps most unexpectedly, the food is actually good, especially the chicken brochettes and the Israeli salad with shrimp. Try not to order seconds of the citrus and pear soup with mascarpone sorbet. You’ll regret it in the morning.

Sure, the mood is Moroccan, but the pedigree (for better or worse) is Euro. Brit Simon Oren is the man behind Sushi Samba and Nice Matin. Host Djamal Zoughbi refined his charm at hot spots like 404 in Paris and Momo in London.

Oh, a tip: Should spontaneous belly dancing ensue, just go with it.

Kemia, 630 Ninth Avenue, at 44th Street (212-582-3200).