You know the drill.

You arrive for cocktails at a house in the hills. As remuneration for your martini, the hostess demands that you appreciate the view. “See Disney Hall! See the ocean!” Squinting into the fog, you nod agreeably.

Central, a new restaurant on the second floor of the Sunset Millennium, has all the advantages of a good location, minus the overbearing-host vibe. In fact, you’ll be under the care of total pros: brothers John and Bob Long (Atlantic, Georgia, Roxbury), Ava Fabian (Ava’s), and Nic Adler (the Roxy). The menu from Jamie DeRosa (Spago) features simple fare: Maine crab cakes with chili-garlic aioli and lemon; white-corn soup; watercress and frisée salad with prosciutto, figs, gorgonzola, and saba; and slow-cooked boneless beef short ribs with polenta and garlic spinach. There’s even a smattering of vegan dishes (braised brussel sprouts, cipolline onions, and smoked tofu).

Designer Christopher “brother of Madonna” Ciccone (Atlantic) has mustered a light, dignified feel with a glass-top bar, dramatic drapery, and ’40s-style French garden furniture in creams and green-tea stripes. A windowed wall and lots of palm trees make for an airy, tropical atmosphere, while the spacious terrace has a retractable glass ceiling for all-weather dining.

Yeah, you’ll have to pay for that martini at the end of the evening.

But you won’t need reminding to admire the view.

Central, 8590 Sunset Boulevard, between La Cienega Boulevard and Sunset Plaza Drive, West Hollywood (310-659-0092).