Don’t like salmon? Too bad. Not a big fan of ikura with cracked quail egg for dessert? Oh well. Here’s a plate of it anyway.

Sometimes it’s as if sushi-philes have been brainwashed to think that the quasi-fascist policies of many Japanese joints (as in, “Don’t ask, don’t tell or you’ll get screamed at, embarrassed, and banned”) are the only option in town.

Not so, Holly Go-Lightly-on-the-Wasabi. Azami caters to both the casual connoisseur and hard-core raw fish-ionado.

Sit at the bar (or not) and order sushi and Japanese cuisine just the way you like it. Sure, they’ve got the basics (tuna, yellowtail, shrimp, etc.) but they also excel in twists on the traditional (grilled toro ricepaper wraps, yellowtail carpaccio with infused pepper oil, and Yanagawa style mushrooms and uni). Daily deliveries from the fish market ensure customers are always hooked up with the freshest catch of the day.

The staff’s happy to suggest (read: not demand) that you try the creative specials. So if you do want to go for the omakase, you’re in for a treat.

Who knows? You might just find yourself reeled in.

Azami, 7160 Melrose Avenue, between Detroit Street and Formosa Avenue, Hollywood (323-939-3816).