food-drink -

Chipotle off the Old Block

It’s inevitable. You’re turning into your elders.

The way you look, walk, and talk. Even the way you sing karaoke is starting to suggest an eerie resemblance to that great aunt of yours who ran off to join a musical comedy troupe. (Mom doesn’t like to talk about her.)

Which is not to say that genetics can’t be cause for celebration. Especially if you’re Lanny Lancarte II, whose new restaurant, Lanny’s Alta Cocina Mexicana, opens today in Fort Worth — not far from the famed Joe T. Garcia’s, started by his great grandfather. Lanny’s serves Nouvelle Mexican cuisine in a cozy bungalow with high ceilings, wood beams, and a bar embellished with river stones.

Everything on the menu pays homage to his family’s deep Mexican heritage — the chipotle-glazed duck breast in nopal cactus risotto, the tequila-cured organic chicken with goat cheese gnocchi, and the genius lobster tail with cilantro polenta cake in Mexican vanilla sauce.

With roots as tasty as these, why would you want the acorn to fall far from the tree?


Lanny’s Alta Cocina Mexicana, 3405 West Seventh Street, Fort Worth (817-850-9996).