Simply perfect.

To some chefs, that’s a contradiction in terms. They have to fancy things up with weirdo sauces and strange presentations. But Scott Howard (of Fork fame) doesn’t rely on such trickery at his new namesake restaurant.

Nestled between the Financial District and North Beach, the joint is as pleasing to the peepers as it is to the palate. Earth tones (think brown and cream), dim lighting, and cozy booths draw you in.

But let’s get to the good stuff. Go hungry. Start off with oysters or fluke sashimi from the raw bar. Move on to bean salad with figs. Absolutely do not skip Howard’s signature carrot broth soup. The poached halibut in bouillabaisse and the short ribs with horseradish are stellar. And the sides: Chanterelles with spinach and gnocchi with Parmesan are delish.

And the white chocolate croissant bread pudding? Worth every last calorie. Plain and simple.

Scott Howard, 500 Jackson Street, between Kearny and Montgomery Streets (415-956-7040).