In Russia, they say “khávchik.” The Spanish call it “papita.”

And in France, they simply call it “bouffe.”

But any which way it’s said, it’s grub to you — and it’s the name of the new adorable gourmet shop in Lincoln Square. Opened by ex-French teacher-cum-Artisanal Cheese expert Libby Bonahoom, Bouffe’s immaculate counters and shelves are stocked with 50 farmstead, artisanal, and international cheeses, cured meats, and a smattering of other heady staples like Sarabeth’s preserves, Bella Cucina pestos, Red Hen bread, chocolates, and hard-to-find Capogiro gelato.

Bonahoom is friendly and helpful, doling out slices of creamy bries and stinky bleus for the taking — and don’t miss the free brownie samples. One bite of the fudgy treats and you’ll want to make a meal of them.

But don’t. That would be très gauche.

Bouffe, 2312 West Leland Avenue, at Western Avenue (773-784-2314).