Fish fingers, chicken nuggets, baked beans. Squishy tinned ravioli filled with Puppy Chum.

What do they have in common? They’re all things you’d expect to find at a canteen. Unless Jamie Oliver has been working his magic. But he only does that for a few lucky schools on the telly, so don’t get too excited.

Well, actually, do. Because a stylish Canteen has just opened, and its menu far surpasses anything out of a tin. Abandon images of the deep-fat fragranced cafeteria in your local school or hospital. This Canteen is a sexy all-day spot that’s relaxed, informal and deliciously British. Just like the food.

For breakfast: homemade crumpets and jam; for lunch, homemade pies and lump-free mash, followed by gingerbread and Horlicks or cheese, quince jelly and a jar of pear cider. For dinner you can pre-book your own roast: beef and yorkie puds, chicken with bread sauce or lamb with fresh mint jelly, complete with all the trimmings. And don’t expect to be served by spotty women in hairnets; the staff here are rather tasty too.

Mr. Oliver would clearly approve.

Canteen, 2 Crispin Place, Spitalfields, E1 (0845 686 1122 or canteen.co.uk).