Poor Marie Antoinette was in a panic. She was having a party for 250 of her ladies-in-waiting, courtiers, and lovers. But dear old Louis was hogging Versailles and the Louvre.

Plus, she was in New York. (Paris in March can be such a drag.)

So she had everyone meet at Buddakan, the latest from Stephen Starr, who had just opened Morimoto. (How little sleep does one restaurateur need?)

The space was perfect. Gorgeous, impressive, and so massive that she’d have no problem avoiding Madame de Grandes-Cuisses.

She walked down the staircase into the dining room, air-kissing the girls at the looooong communal table before sliding into the corner banquette. Waiters brought edamame dumplings, crispy calamari pillow salad, and chili rock shrimp. Everyone is simply fou for l’Orient around here.

Mischief-makers were up to no good in the Buddha room. An unidentified vicomte was losing his virtue in The Library bar. Debauchery was ensuing upstairs. (Mademoiselle Coquine. How could you?)

M.A. called the night a success and finished her meal with blood orange sorbet.

She’d had bad experiences with cake in the past.

Buddakan, 75 Ninth Avenue, at 16th Street (212-989-6699).

Photo Credit: Noah Kalina