Some people say Harvard Square has lost its character. They rattle off a list of dearly departed shops and old standbys, and you feel like you missed all the fun.

Next victim? Iruna, the Spanish stalwart that introduced tapas to your great uncle in his undergraduate Crimson days. (Yar, dear boy, yar.)

The silver lining? Conundrum, the charming little restaurant that has replaced it.

Chef Eric Wernsing’s seven-starter, seven-entree menu spans ethnic influences and commands an impressive surf  ’n’ turf versatility. He didn’t want to be fenced in by any one region’s fare — and judging from a sumptuous Tamarind pork tenderloin, not to mention shrimp wrapped in bacon, he hasn’t been.

Pastry chef Jennifer Pearson leads off the desserts with crepes Conundrum: sweet sauteed bananas wrapped in chocolate crepes and topped with chocolate ice cream.

The place feels very homey (in spite of the mud-toned, minimalist decor). Come June, the patio out back should be buzzing.

As for the change-averse Bitter McMoaners in Harvard Square, well, you’ll just have to have fun for them, too.

Conundrum, 56 JFK Street, Harvard Square, Cambridge (617-868-0335).