food-drink -

Fly the Coop

At home, you’re the nesting type. Cozy throws rest on overstuffed sofas; picture frames fill every room. Funny, though, how your fridge gets no love.

Cheer up, magpie. Next time you’re hungry, fly due north to Sparrow, a new French-Asian roost perched atop Nob Hill in the old Watergate space.

Owner and designer Steve Javellana has created a swank, contemporary eatery with cherry floors, intimate booths, and subtle teal accents throughout. Views of Grace Cathedral lend a touch of drama, as does the wide exhibition kitchen.

Wet your beak with a ginger martini with Thai basil in the votive-lit lounge. Then chirp about chef Terry Lynch’s (Kingfisher, Mustards) creative combos, such as sea urchin fritters with ponzu-truffle sauce, herbed roasted chicken with red beet and nori salad, and zucchini-blossom tempura. For dessert, have a chocolate ganache tart with peanut sauce.

Cooking at home?

It’s for the birds.


Sparrow, 1177 California Street, at Jones Street (415-474-2000 or sparrowrestaurant.com).