It’s Friday night. You’ve got pot stickers on the brain. Your options: a “healthy” spot specializing in fake meats and fried rice, or a greasy chopstick joint where the ambience is best described as broom closet chic. Boo and hiss, in that order.

So it’s your good fortune, cookie, that Tim and Liza Goodell (Dakota, 25 Degrees) are opening the latest outpost of their contemporary Asian eatery, Red Pearl Kitchen, tonight at the former site of Meson G.

Inside is an over-the-top, modernized mix of old (calligraphy, Mao posters, chandelier made of firecrackers and kimonos) and new (films projected against silk lampshades, Mandarin soap operas, game shows on flat-screens). Under the giant Red Pearl Lady painting in the lounge, kick back with a Tsingtao while you wait for a table or play pool.

Don’t forget to eat. Snack on dim sum like Dungeness crab and pork spring rolls and shiitake veggie egg rolls, or order up hot pots, noodles, and wok’d dishes like Kobe beef with red papaya or grilled short ribs with pumpkin and massaman curry.

Oh, and order the chicken-ginger pot stickers. Because tonight you can have your dumplings.

And eat them, too.

Red Pearl Kitchen, 6703 Melrose Avenue, at Citrus Avenue, Hollywood (323-525-1415).