The definition of sacrilege: fantasizing about renting a villa in Tuscany over a bottle of Two-Buck Chuck.

At least, we would think, to Italians.

Blaspheme no more at Biondivino, the new specialty wine boutique in Russian Hill, where you’ll find hard-to-find varietals and small production vintages from Italy that haven’t been available in California — until now.

A vivid orange awning beckons passersby inside the pint-size shop. Modern twig chandeliers and white walls lined with 1,700 bottles create a chic, yet intimate atmosphere.

Take a load off at one of the rustic farm tables for an impromptu lesson in refosco (a northern Italian red) with knowledgeable owner Ceri Smith. Say arrivederci to chiantis and pinot grigios and buona sera to schioppetinos, vitovska, and biancolellas.

And though the exclusive wines come from all over Italy, Switzerland, and Austria, you’ll find many bottles under $20 and most under 34 bucks.

Which, Bacchus willing, will have you swearing off the Chuck for good.

Biondivino Wine Boutique, 1415 Green Street, at Polk Street (415-673-2320).