Finding a good old-fashioned place to eat, drink, and be merry requires tactical maneuvers (negotiating a reservation before 22:00, securing a parking space, avoiding a siege at the front door).

For a surefire strategy, lead your unit of civilians to the Presidio Social Club, a spiffy new restaurant housed in historic Building 563, just inside the national park.

Husband-and-wife team Ray Tang and Shawn Kearney-Tang outfitted the classic army barracks with plush black leather banquettes, whirring ceiling fans, and a long bar accented by original medicine cabinets salvaged from the old Letterman Hospital and manned by bartenders in white coats.

Nosh on California-style Americana creations (like sloppy joes made with Kobe beef or a basket of fried chicken, rabbit, and quail) at a central communal table. Or put the country back in club by dining al fresco on the outdoor patio. Look out for family-style weeknight suppers and lunch in the future.

And consider it your duty to enjoy.

Presidio Social Club, 563 Ruger Street, at Lombard Street (415-885-1888 or presidiosocialclub.com).