Let’s review the dossier on Milk, a chameleon liquid operating a racket in the agrarian community.

Milk works out of White Cow Dairy, a micro creamery in East Otto, New York. Trick Lango, lanky farmer and star intelligence on lactose matters, uses old-fashioned techniques, vintage recipes, and small-scale equipment to make gorgeous dairy products.

Taste the difference: This gently pasteurized, hormone-free moo juice ends up in delicious puddings, smooth whips, silky dips, and delicate custards (with eggs, vanilla, sea salt).

Evidence suggests Lango will be teaching a class on baked cream caramels and buttermilk at Murray’s Cheese in August. There’s serious threat of a NY-style cheesecake (crushed biscotti and butter crust).

We’ve secured backup, as such sampling is not without consequence. You’ll be a traitor to cream cheese once you’ve savored chive or habanero yogurt sauce on a bagel.

We’ve got plenty to work with. Now mooove it.

This refrigerated case is not yet closed.

Available at Murray’s Cheese, 254 Bleecker Street, between Leroy and Cornelia Streets (212-243-3289); online at whitecowdairy.com.