First, Art Smith opened Table Fifty-Two. Next, Dale Levitsky brought home the silver in Top Chef.

Those elastic pants will come in handy after all, as Chicago further asserts its culinary supremacy.

But maybe don’t wear them to Brasserie Ruhlmann Steakhouse. The new spot, opening in River North today, marks the Chicago debut of four-star chef Christian Delouvrier (Lespinasse, Alain Ducasse).

Ruhlmann is large and in charge, with 10,000 square feet of space, seating for 500, and the city’s largest outdoor patio and bar. The interior, a tribute to deco designer Emile-Jacques Ruhlmann, has alabaster chandeliers, hand-laid mosaic floors, and red velvet banquettes that set the stage for refined cuisine.

Delouvrier blends classic and contemporary French, giving meat most of the attention: 26-ounce Châteaubriand filet for two, Niman Ranch pork chops, and roast organic chicken. The raw bar mimics a Parisian fish market.

Well. Looks like we have another winner.

Brasserie Ruhlmann Steakhouse, 500 West Superior Street, at Kingsbury Street (312-494-1900).