Snail porridge? Parsnip cereal? Been there. Done that. And, incidentally, loved it.

But go on, admit it: all you wanted afterwards was a big fat steak and chips.

For simple home-cooked fare, head to Harrison’s Brasserie & Bar. Since he opened Sam’s Brasserie & Bar two years ago, the indefatigable Sam Harrison has gained a loyal following — and not just from among his customers. Rick Stein has always been a supporter; now Nick Jones has offered him the site of the former Balham Kitchen & Bar for this latest venture, a groovy spot for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

Expect basic grub and good service. For breakfast: Posh Porridge with fruit and honey, or Warwickshire Wizzer sausage sandwich. For lunch and dinner: oysters and chippolatas; Iberico ham and figs; or a full-on fish pie, followed by ice cream and cookies or sherry trifle.

It’s all simple and refreshingly unpretentious.

And, yes. They do a fine 12-ounce sirloin with fries.

Harrison’s Brasserie & Bar, 15-19 Bedford Hill, SW12 9EX (020 8675 6900 or harrisonsbalham.co.uk).