He pushed. She resisted. He wooed. She ran.

And then homeboy got a clue: “Lunch at Vita?”

Bingo. Take things delectably slow at Tony LaRocco’s much-awaited Italian spot, opening for lunch Monday. Get acquainted with portobello mushroom panini, chicken Parm sandwiches, and mussels served six ways.

Sconced wall dividers and red table linen cozifies the mammoth dining room, but if you really want to get close, head to the semiprivate nook just off the bar.

Leave your datebook open later this month for dinner. Rigatoni with vodka sauce, Parmesan-crusted swordfish, and chicken scarpariello are pleasers. The wine list alone — heavy on Italian pours with a few Californian and Australian picks in the mix — should be worth the return trip.

You know how it goes: First comes love, then comes a liquor license.

Vita, 2110 Peachtree Road, Buckhead (404-367-8482 or vitaatl.com).