Inside headquarters of the Associazione Pizzaioli Europei, Naples, Italy.

Mario: Mamma mia! Our traditional, DOC-designated Napoletana pie recipes have been butchered for years. Thin crust? Bah. What’s the deal?

Antonio: Mario, haven’t you heard about Orta, chef Jimmy Burke’s new Pembroke place? He spent a month working in pizzerias over here to get his recipe right. He’s using the right dough, our favorite San Marzano tomato sauce, and real buffalo mozzarella — even cooking at the right temp inside a wood-fired oven.

Mario: Oh, si? What about his flavors?

Antonio: The margarita, of course. And a funghi misti; a salami; and an ortolana with eggplant, zucchini, and radicchio. Your favorite, no? He’s also serving piattini for just $4, antipasti, and all sorts of hearty pastas.

Mario: Mm, sounds about right. Expensivo o no?

Antonio: No, no, almost every dish is under $20.

Mario: Madone! That’s cheap no matter how you slice it.

Orta Restaurant, 75 Washington Street, Pembroke (781-826-8883 or ortarestaurant.com).