Whether it’s Nana bitching that Grandpa cheats at canasta or Mom discussing your sister’s love life, you always end up in the middle.

For those at the center of it all, Post 390 may be the perfect choice.

Opening tomorrow between Back Bay and the South End at the site of a former post office, the two-floor resto has a mix of dark wood walls, brown leather chairs, and wrought iron detailing, giving it a cozy tavern vibe. Chef Eric Brennan brings a gourmet flair to American favorites like veal, beef, and pork meatloaf; beer and bacon mac ’n’ cheese; and grilled skirt steak. For your sweet tooth, try three-layer chocolate cake or a whopping slice of cherry pie.

Perch yourself at one of two bars and pick from two score of beers (including impossible-to-find Founders Breakfast Stout) or slide into a corner booth with a view of the massive open fireplace.

You can take heat from all sides.

Post 390, 406 Stuart Street, Back Bay (617-399-0015 or post390restaurant.com).