Odysseys into Greek dining usually turn rough when the Cyclops server appears.

For smoother sails, set a course for Downtown’s sole Grecian getaway, Kellari Taverna.

Opening softly tomorrow for lunch and Friday for dinner, the whitewashed brasserie-style restaurant takes a voyage through Greek seas with fish pulled straight out of the Mediterranean (and other waters).

On the first leg, taste grilled sushi-grade octopus or roasted lamb riblets.

Next fall captive to the whole tsipoura or turbot shipped in daily, grilled, and topped with a squeeze of lemon and olive oil. (Whole local chickens over feta mashed potatoes also sing a sweet siren song.)

Conquer the homestretch with a sampler of baklava or karidopita, walnut cake served with fig gelato.

Fortify along the way with a lengthy wine list hailing primarily from the homeland or cocktails in homage to famous Greeks with names like Orpheus, Socrates, and Plato.

Oh, brother.

Kellari Taverna, 1700 K Street NW, between 17th and 18th Streets (202-535-5274).