Remember when everyone had to wear a suit to work? (Yeah, neither do we.)

Memo to Mad Men everywhere: Going casual isn’t such a bad thing after all.

Take Barbacco, the new, casual Italian joint from the Perbacco team. Opening for lunch on Monday (dinner service is expected in the next couple of weeks), this 66-seat charmer’s dressed-down interior (exposed brick, black marble bar, small communal tables) sets the scene for a cozy, laid-back meal.

The menu’s rustic from start to finish: Lunch sees sandos like roasted porchetta with grape and grilled radicchio agrodolce; dinner gets you Sicilian meatballs (braised chard, pine nuts, tomato) and quick-braised calamari (chile, fennel, olives).

With 60 wines by the glass, this unfussy eatery is more urbane than it appears.

Suits us just fine.

Barbacco Eno Trattoria, 220 California Street, between Battery and Front Streets (415-955-1919 or barbaccosf.com).