You often fantasize about life as a professional cake tester. There’s hope: Kelly Cosgrove just landed her dream job, director of snacks at Lush West Town, a new wine and snack bar.

Before seeing her in action, pick up a bottle of vino or beer at the shop (it’s waiting on a permit, so it’s temporarily BYO). Then mosey next door to get your grub on.

Behind the bar, Cosgrove slices, chops, melts, and constructs delicious edibles. Start with a heaping bowl of duck fat popcorn, delicately salted and tasting only faintly of your feathered friend. Dip warm pita slices into homemade hummus, a piquant mix of garlic, lemon, and fresh chickpeas. Molten cheese and sausage, pork rillettes, and deviled eggs round out the small plates.

Fulfill your dairy requirement with an ever-rotating cheese selection, delivered to your table accompanied by quince and pear paste and lavender-infused honey. Or pig out on prosciutto di San Daniele, jamon di Serrano, or Colonel Newsom’s Country Ham.

Sandwiches include a deconstructed breakfast variety, lobster and beef tenderloin, and ham and Gruyere.

Lush Wine and Spirits, 1412 West Chicago Avenue, at Noble Street (312-666-6900 or lushwineandspirits.com).

Photo: Andy Wedge / Courtesy of Lush Wine and Spirits

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