What was wine country like before tourist overload and The Bachelor? Go back in time to Paso Robles, where the town is still quaint, the tasting route traffic is minimal, and the culinary scene is picking up steam. And there’s wine, too.

You’ve likely heard of Hotel Cheval, and for good reason. The sixteen rooms off a fireplace-equipped courtyard are pure luxury in the heart of town.

Spa junkies can opt for a room at the original El Paso de Robles Hotel (built in 1891) at the historic Paso Robles Inn, which sits atop a hot spring. Soak up the thermal benefits from your balcony tub but beware: The sulfur gets stinky.

Just Inn B&B, nestled amid the vineyards at Justin Winery, shows off unparalleled scenery from Euro-style suites.

Start your day the local way at Amsterdam Coffee House, where strong joe and breakfast sandwiches await.

Amsterdam Coffee House, 725 13th Street (805-239-7779).

If leisurely, farm-to-table brunch calls, look no farther than the covered patio at Thomas Hill Organics.

Farmstand 46 is a necessary pit stop on the tasting route (more on that later). Artisanal sandwiches, salads, and wood-fired pizzas employing the garden’s produce refuel you for the long haul.

Make your whey to Vivant Fine Cheese, where you can enjoy 150-plus international and local curds alfresco on the adjacent patio.

Artisan started the local, seasonal movement in Paso. The foodies still come flocking.

We lay down our forks to the new Southern Italian kid in town, Il Cortile Ristorante. Owners Carole and Santos MacDonal make a knockout team (she’s the proprietress; he’s the chef).

Head west on Route 46 (a natural tasting loop) to newly opened Shale Oak Winery. Take a glass of velvety Ku to the outdoor patio at the sustainable operation and soak in the green. 

Shale Oak Winery, 3235 Oakdale Road (805-239-4800).

Change gears at Cypher Winery tasting room — the most badass of all, complete with a Freakshow line of wines (Zinbitch, Anarchy, Peasant).

One-up wine tasting with artisanal spirits at Villicana Winery. Sip saignée, a wine-making byproduct purified to just-below-vodka levels and bottled as Re:find, in the tasting room. (It’s smooth and subtly sweet over ice.)

Sober up at Pasolivo, where you can taste through an entire line of world-class olive oils and shop for soaps and lotions.

Cleanse your palate with one of Pithy Little Soda Works’s vintage-style sodas.

If you still have steam after dinner, trot to the Pony Club (Hotel Cheval’s bar) for a nightcap at the horseshoe bar or patio.