When it comes to food, they say it’s good to go local. But it’s hard to find so much as a free-range egg when the only shop near your house sells booze, fags and a couple of dusty Chupa Chups.

Head to new restaurant Konstam at The Prince Albert and everything you eat will be genuinely local — so much so, in fact, that every morsel that passes your lips will have been sourced from within the London tube network. And because it’s all found nearby, it results in less pollution from overseas transport and more money to homegrown suppliers.

Run by chef/owner Oliver Rowe, whose Konstam cafe in King’s Cross is always packed, the place is a shrine to ecofriendly eating. Food is Northern European, so you’ll get things like pan-fried chicken livers, honey-brined pork chops, and cabbage, pork-belly and caraway soup.

Highlights are the breast of wood pigeon (obviously not hard to find a few of those around these parts) or the Thames sole with brown butter (apparently there are plenty of things other than shopping trolleys living in London’s great river).

Free it’s not.

But in terms of range? It’s exemplary.

Konstam at The Prince Albert, 2 Acton Street, WC1 (020 7833 5040 or konstam.co.uk).