London - October 03, 2007

A Man for All Seasons

Hereford Road Restaurant Opens

You know your fillet from your sirloin; your sevruga from your beluga; your Gucci from your Pucci.

You’re a discerning kind of a pest.

So when you discover that yet another eatery has opened its old-but-new doors in West London, serving British-based food made with — surprise, surprise — seasonal ingredients, you may think you’ve seen it all before.

But when it comes to Hereford Road, which opens in Notting Hill tomorrow, think again. Though the place features all of the above, it’s run by Tom Pemberton, former head chef of St. John Bread and Wine, which means it has a serious head start.

Set, appropriately, in a Victorian butcher’s shop, Hereford Road offers meaty dishes like calf’s brain and sorrell; or cold veal and anchovy, followed by braised rabbit with bacon and mustard; crispy pigs tails; or grilled onglet; plus summer pudding.

The wine list is just as beefy, and the atmosphere most convivial.

All in all, it’s definitely worth a butcher’s.

Hereford Road, 3 Hereford Road, W2 4AB (020 7727 1144 or herefordroad.org).

  Boozehound, Laid Back, Locavore, Lunch Spot