When it comes to your stomach, you always take the long road. (Regional food means hiking for hoisin, not your neighborhood Pizza Express.)

But sometimes, you prefer the Leong way — as in Keelung, the latest venture from the venerable Leong family (Leong’s Legend, Hi Sushi, Goldfish, Koi).

Dedicated to authentic Taiwanese street food, the unpretentious resto serves affordable, hard-to-find morsels like sweet and spicy turnips; pork and tofu meatballs; and a chicken claypot with a ginger, goji berry and rice wine broth. (Dishes start at £3.50.)

The truly adventurous will love the fresh fish display counter (where you can pick your finned friend and its preparation) and a food shop piled with products imported from Taiwan (pineapple cake, fermented rice wines).

It’s just up your street.

Keelung, 6 Lisle Street, WC2H 7BG (020 7734 8128).