New York - February 08, 2010

Great Balls Afire

The Meatball Shop Opens

With no disrespect for the jack of all trades, we’ve fallen hard for the Daniel of one.

Chef Daniel Holzman sharpened his knives at Le Bernardin, but he’s mastering a humbler art at The Meatball Shop, which he’s opening tomorrow with childhood pal and Frank alum Michael Chernow.

The genius concept: Start with meatballs — spicy pork, beef, vegetable, salmon, and chicken (the unlikely star). Get them alone, in sliders, on heroes, with sauce. Don’t forget sides like freshly milled polenta, ice cream sandwiches made by Chernow’s wife, and beers sold by the milk jug and pitcher.

The small space is Americana charming, with tables made from reclaimed East Village tenement wood. Watch the open kitchen work while you wait at the counter; that’s La Quercia prosciutto going into the grind.

They serve till 4 a.m., for your prehangover convenience. And prices are almost too low to print.

We’re balls out for this one.

The Meatball Shop, 84 Stanton Street, between Allen and Orchard Streets (212-982-8895 or themeatballshop.com).

  Finger-Licking Good, Late Night, Open Kitchen, Quick Fix