It’s true: bigger isn’t always better.

Take, for example, Spuntino — the tiny new offering from Polpo and Polpetto’s Russell Norman — which opened yesterday after nearly a yearlong delay.

The Soho restaurant lives up to its name (Italian for ‘snack’) with shareable small plates inspired by downtown Manhattan (truffled egg toast, salt beef sliders, mac and cheese and soft shell crab with Tabasco aioli). Add a side of cheddar grits or eggplant chips, and finish with a Nutella pizzetta for dessert.

With a no-reservations policy and space for only 26 at the bar, a wait is inevitable. But it’s a small price to pay.

Spuntino, 61 Rupert Street, W1D 7PL (spuntino.co.uk).

Photo: Courtesy of Spuntino