This town loves a comeback (see: Arrested Development, Katie Holmes on the singles scene).

Now a culinary star is poised for a major one.

Spago, the crown jewel of Wolfgang Puck’s empire, has reopened following a full menu and modernist design revamp (artwork by Ed Ruscha, oversize wine wall).

What stayed the same: Puck’s dedication to elevated California cuisine, the industry hotspot vibe, and the $$$$ price tags.

What changed: everything else.

Gone are the smoked salmon pizza and Wiener Schnitzel. In their place: a rotating selection of market-driven fare that puts a premium on veggies, fresh seafood, and all-around healthy eating. Menu categories include Raw, Wild & Organic (veal filet mignon tartare), Decadent & Indulgent (sweet corn agnolotti), From the Sea (grilled whole Dover sole), and From the Pasture (Wagyu short ribs).

For dessert, opt for the triple-layered chocolate bowl.

It’ll have you coming back for more.

Spago, 176 North Canon Drive, between Wilshire Boulevard and Clifton Way, Beverly Hills (310-385-0880 or wolfgangpuck.com).

Photo: Biz Urban Photography for DailyCandy