Can you believe it’s already December?
Can bees remember?
Baby unicorn parade?
When it comes to a game of telephone, a little variation just adds to the fun. The same holds true for family recipes, as Josef Centeno (Bäco Mercat) demonstrates at his new downtown eatery, Bar Amá, opening Saturday. Named for his great-grandmother, the restaurant serves clever takes on Tex-Mex dished out by three generations of female relatives.
Hearty appetizers (polenta taquitos, Frito pies) think outside the chips-and-salsa routine, while mains range from north-of-the-border familiar (wood-fired fajitas) to when-in-Monterrey authentic (roasted goat cabrito, spicy mondongo soup). Fried puffy tacos stuffed with juicy carnitas drizzled in chile vinegar salsa are like Cinco de Mayo in your mouth.
Chase it all down with a rigorous selection of Mexican beers and top-shelf tequila.
This joint doesn’t phone anything in.
Bar Amá, 118 West Fourth Street, between South Spring and South Main Streets, Downtown (213-687-8002 or bar-ama.com).
Photo: Courtesy of Biz Urban Photography for DailyCandy