We kick two-timing paramours to the curb.

But when a restaurant doubles up, all is forgiven.

Such is the case with Little Tokyo’s newest culinary gem.

By day, the space operates under nom de chow The Sandwich Smith and pledges devotion to freshly baked breads (country white, walnut cranberry), hearty meats (pulled pork, buttermilk fried chicken), and premium toppings (corn salsa, dill pickle chips) in combos of your choosing. Note: Egg salad with frisee and bacon is unstoppable.

Come nightfall, the lights dim, the four-tops become two, and the restaurant — now aptly named Fickle — forsakes sandos for a fling with more sophisticated fare: sweetbreads with Madeira sauce, pan-roasted skate wing, and grilled spotted prawns.

Samoa donuts and salted dark chocolate chip cookies prove irresistible.

Who said cheaters never prosper?

Fickle and The Sandwich Smith, 362 East First Street, at Central Avenue, Little Tokyo (213-628-1888 or thesandwichsmith.com and ficklela.com).

Photos: Biz Urban Photography for DailyCandy