Food & Drink

Roe Float Your Boat?

Blame it on the Russians. Or the Petrossians. In the ’20s, brothers Melkoum and Mouchegh introduced Russian caviar to the Parisian palate. Their Paris boutique has been dishing out the Caspian Sea’s finest for over 80 years. A New York outpost followed, near Carnegie Hall. But — sigh — like so many of Manhattan’s finer things, the westward migration took longer than LA foodies would have liked.

Caviaristas, rejoice. Recessionistas, rejoice! This past fall, the Robertson space formerly held by Aristoff became LA’s Petrossian spot, and just recently launched a charming cafe.

Of note: Indulgence need not be intimidating. The cozy interior is devoid of the pretense associated with caviar. Service is unfussy. The menu offers modestly priced selections that make sampling a bite-size dose of classic opulence more fun.

A caviar and roe assortment? Foie gras with toast? Each are $19. Pick up a tin of black beads to go. Or try pain d’epices, a delicately aromatic Parisian honey-bread that’s a heavenly base for the shop’s foie gras. Don’t miss another house specialty: vodka-filled chocolate “caviar pearls,” which they’ll let you taste if you ask.

Just ask nicely, okay?

Petrossian Paris, 321 North Robertson Boulevard, north of Beverly Boulevard (310-271-0576). Or shop online at www.petrossian.com.