Food & Drink

Red Light, Green Light

Oh, the perks of being a grown-up: no homework, skimpy lingerie, calling your own “sick days,” Frosted Flakes and cappuccinos when and where you want them…

When it comes to restaurants, mature (as in “not hopelessly trendy”) diners know that eating well does not mean having to kiss ass with a clubby doorman or spending $75 on a cluster of salad and tuna fish masquerading as ahi tuna.

A real grown-up restaurant opens today: Opaline. Named after the color of Oscar Wilde’s favorite libation, absinthe, the attitude-free, rustic bistro is located in the space that once housed Red. (But there’s no trace of the space’s former tenant of color.) Both lunch and dinner are served, and wine, cocktails, and small plates are available in the adjacent den. Chef David Lentz (from Miami’s Blue Door and China Grill) cooks up excellent Mediterranean fare; wine expert David Rosoff has designed a user-friendly list. So you’ll find the right drink for your beet-and-arugula salad or pork braised with Moroccan-spiced milk.

Yes, wine and food. Definitely the two best things about being a grown-up.

Opaline, 7450 Beverly Boulevard, at Vista Street (323-857-6725).