Los Angeles - November 13, 2002

Comfortably Yum

Edendale Grill

We understand the obsession with comfort food. It brings back memories of Mom’s cooking (never mind if her macaroni and cheese came from a box).

And while there’s no shortage of restaurants that serve up old favorites, most places lack — how shall we put it? — atmosphere.

Well, chef Patti Peck, former owner of hipster diner Millie’s, has taken her home-style cooking upscale at the Edendale Grill. The menu? Crab cakes, pork chops, potpies, and mashed potatoes (as well as the requisite tofu dish to satisfy high-maintenance Hollywood types). Desserts? Deliciously simple: puddings, cobblers, and warm cookies.

Housed in a converted fire station, the building has undergone renovation, but many of the original details remain. The bar is set in what was the fire-truck bay; the large doors open on a generous, palm-lined patio; and the walls are dotted with historic photos of the original Edendale studios.

Candlelight, carbs, history, and a killer wine list — now that’s what we call comfort.

Edendale Grill, 2838 Rowena Avenue, at West Silver Lake Boulevard (323-666-2000).