In L.A., people sometimes need things spelled out for them. AOC. What’s that stand for? Actor on Camera? Artful Outstanding Cuisine? Awesome Old Cheeses?

The latest restaurant by Caroline Styne and chef Suzanne Goin — who made Lucques an award-winning L.A. institution — is a contemporary translation of a nostalgic concept: the wine bar and restaurant.

AOC’s fare is French with Californian and Mediterranean accents, but the emphasis is on sharing. Tapas-size portions are served family style. Fifty wines by the glass (or half carafe) and dozens of world-class cheeses ensure taste swapping. Fear not, there are victuals for the lactose intolerant, too: Speck with apples and arugula, trout with jambon and almond salsa, and so on.

And everything is organic. AOC is a member of the Chefs Collaborative, which celebrates local, seasonal, and artisanal ingredients, as well as shows respect for their origins.

As for those initials … Stumped? It’s the French varietal-wine and cheese designation appellation d’origine controlee.

And although it’s styled to become your favorite new neighborhood hang, reservations — thanks to Goin’s diva-chef reputation — are essential.

AOC, 8022 West 3rd Street, between Fairfax Avenue and Crescent Heights Boulevard (323-653-6359).