FADE IN:

INT. GRACE RESTAURANT - NIGHT

Opening night at L.A.’s newest restaurant on Beverly. A trendy GUEST and trendier WAITER converse.

There’s drama afoot at the former home of Muse, the concrete-on-concrete restaurant known for its excellent cosmos and giant seawater aquarium.

The fishies may be gone, but there’s still plenty to attract visitors. Chef Neal Fraser (of Boxer and Rix) balances simply prepared, exotically seasoned seafood with sterner stuff like air-dried duck, pumpkin, sea urchin and lobster risotto; wild boar with spaetzle; and bacon-wrapped saddle of rabbit. Accompaniments are just plain fun to say: brandade-stuffed little peppers, creamy tofu emulsion, and coconut-cauliflower couscous.

Designer Michael Berman tamed the space’s severity with lots of light and an herbal color palette: oregano, paprika, bittersweet chocolate, and rose (names clearly pilfered from the J. Crew catalog).

Those seeking good food and comfy surroundings need look no further.

For those in search of a fish tank: Try Seaworld.

Grace, 7360 Beverly Boulevard, at Martel Street (323-934-4400).