When it comes to food, “eclectic” is all the rage.

Still, there’s a limit. You don’t want to be fishing bits of seaweed out of your matzo-ball soup.

Luckily, some places get it right every time. When we heard that the new restaurant Luna Park features French, Italian, American, and Asian influences, we didn’t bat an eyelash. After all, it’s a spin-off of the San Francisco hot spot of the same name (no relation to the defunct venue on Robertson). The menu includes warm goat-cheese fondue, Hawaiian tuna poke with wonton chips, braised lamb shank with cranberry beans and brown-butter polenta, and breaded pork cutlet stuffed with mushrooms and Gruyere. For dessert, you’ll obviously want to try the make-your-own s’mores. Everything is deliciously affordable, though nothing beats the wine list, which is extensive and hovers just above retail in price.

In sum, it’s relaxed and fun, featuring booths that look like church pews, artwork by graffiti master Damon Soule, and chandeliers hand-decorated by one of the owners, who happens also to be the executive chef.

How very eclectic of him.

Luna Park, 672 South La Brea Avenue, at Wilshire Boulevard (323-934-2110).