Los Angeles - July 02, 2004

Trading Places

Cafe Capo

Seems like just yesterday Opaline opened its doors on Beverly. And now, alas, it’s history. Poof! Bye-bye.

Bummer, eh?

The silver lining: Its replacement, Cafe Capo, will quickly qualify as the preferred neighborhood haunt. A sister to the Capo in Santa Monica, the restaurant is clearly still in transition (There’s a temporary sign and they’re in the process of printing menus), but the kitchen’s working just fine. The extensive appetizer menu is enough to make a viable small-plates meal, if that’s your mood: porcini-mushroom soup; white-truffle Caesar salad; Maine-lobster risotto; hamachi, fig, and arugula salad. You’re more of a three-course type? Bring on the main courses: monkfish “osso buco” with Littleneck clams and black mussels; duck breast with polenta and green-tomato marmalade; and homemade Italian sausage. Desserts include classics like tiramisu, creme caramel, and organic-peach crumble with mascarpone.

Guess when the restaurant gods close a door, they occasionally remember to open another one.

Cafe Capo, 7450 Beverly Boulevard, at Vista Street (323-857-6725).