Los Angeles - August 16, 2004

Staying Power

La Terza Restaurant

Lord knows this town can be cruel. One minute you’re MC Hammer circa 1990. The next you’re MC Hammer circa, well, any time after that.

Getting to the top is easy. It’s staying there that’s hard.

So when those who’ve mastered the art of staying hot break out something fresh, it’s time to pay attention. La Terza, a new restaurant on Third Street, has a pedigree to make most restaurateurs blush. The owners are veterans of Angelini Osteria (Elizabeth McLaury and Gino Angelini) and Campanile (Claudio Blotta), and the chef de cuisine used to be at Spago (Jason Travi). The airy two-story space has big windows and simple wooden-slatted chairs. The menu revolves around dishes prepared “allo spiedo” (on the rotisserie). The oven has both oak and olive wood, imparting serious flavor to meats from ranch lamb to duck. For dessert, try coffee semifreddo with meringue, nougatine, chocolate chips, and granita or ricotta fritters with sour-cherry compote and mascarpone ice cream.

The only dent in La Terza’s longevity karma? It’s housed in the space formerly known as Cava, which, of course, bit the dust a while back. Otherwise …

Can’t touch this.

La Terza, 8384 West Third Street, at Orlando Avenue (323-782-8384).