Los Angeles - September 30, 2004

Kai Opener

Kai Restaurant

Opening a restaurant? Keep the name short.

That seems to be the prevailing philosophy these days. Used to be you could throw two, even three words into a joint’s name — Cobras and Matadors, Les Deux Cafes, Musso and Frank. These days it’s all about the one-worder (and a little one at that): Koi, A.O.C., Jar.

The latest? Kai, the restaurant where Rebecca’s used to be. The owners, vets of the West side bar-restaurant scene (Hal’s, James Beach, Shane, Baja Cantina), have planted a Polynesian paradise right on Ocean Boulevard. Chef Nobu Hamazaki, formerly of Sushi Roku and Koi, does a “tapas concept with a Pacific Rim/Polynesian fusion,” featuring seafood (Kai means “ocean” in Hawaiian): beef carpaccio; soy-paper hand rolls with various fillings; lobster ceviche; garlic tiger shrimp skewered on sugarcane stalks; as well as happy hour, lunch, and brunch menus. (Try the made-to-order quiche: Choose fillings, omelette-style!)

The decor features a preponderance of warm, orange-hued padauk wood and, in keeping with the theme, lots of Gauguin-inspired paintings. A big waterfall at the entrance is flanked by palm-trunk planters; teak chairs and painted floors complete the picture. There’s lots of outdoor seating, where the ocean breeze is sure to blow plenty of passersby through the door. Well, that and the trendy three-letter name.

At least until Boa opens up down the street.

Kai, 101 Broadway, at Ocean Avenue, Santa Monica (310-434-1511).